Oregon is Pinot Noir Country.

by Ed Young, FrugalMacDoogal.com contributor. Photos by Bethany Underwood.

Posted August 2, 2008

It is interesting how certain grapes/wines become associated with certain places. When Sauvignon Blanc comes to mind, one thinks of New Zealand and those great Cloudy Bay whites. With South Africa it is Pinotage or Steen; with Argentina, Malbec; with Australia, Shiraz; etc. In the United States, it is hard to think of Cabernet Sauvignon without thinking of Oakville or Stag's Leap, and the name Dry Creek (Sonoma) conjures up images of the most delicious Zinfandels. Now, what comes to mind with Oregon? None other than that most noble grape from Burgundy. Our wine manager, Jeff Warzynski, just returned from a visit to that state, and this month we follow him in pursuit of Pinot Noir.

First, a word about the grape. Pinot Noir is the quintessential red grape of Burgundy, but it is now grown in many locations in the New World. Pinot, which requires cool weather, is arguably the most cantankerous of all the noble grapes. It is often described as an obstinate child. It needs lots of attention and nourishing, and it is hard to get it to grow up into something worthwhile. But when the vintner succeeds, the results can be stunning and memorable. Pinot Noir tends to be high in acid, but low in tannins, which makes it more accessible in its youth. It is undoubtedly the most versatile and food-friendly of all the reds. Arguably the only red that can be served with fish, it is a perfect match for salmon. It is also a "sipper"-a wine that is as good alone as with food. The wine is light to medium in body and translucent when held to the light. Karen MacNeil, in The Wine Bible, notes that more than any other wine, Pinot Noir is described in sensual terms. This may result from its remarkably supple, silky textures and erotically earthy aromas. Common tasting notes include cherries, plums, damp earth, mushrooms, and worn leather. At its best, this is one sexy and delicious wine!

The second point about Pinot Noir is that it is made in a variety of styles. California Pinots tend to be softer and more immediately accessible. In Oregon, the grape comes closer to the French style - complex, floral, acidic, and with a bit more body. Because hot weather reds like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon are not widely planted in Oregon, vintners in that state have devoted most of their acreage and skills to Pinot Noir. As production increased and the quality of the wines became noticeably better and better, it was time to make a trip out there.

One nice aspect of Oregon is that many of the wineries in the best appellation, the Willamette Valley (pronounced "Wil-lam'-ett"), are within 30-45 minutes of Portland. So it is easy to combine daytime wine tastings with fine dining and cultural events in the evenings. After many trips to Napa and Sonoma, Oregon is a real change of pace. Vintners there are extremely hospitable and have not yet become jaded by hordes of wine-swilling tourists. Jeff likens the difference to the glitz and artificiality of Disney World versus the down-home, laid back, family-friendly ambiance of Dollywood. Oregon is highly recommended for a wine vacation, but don't go for a seaside resort experience. The beachcombing is great, but the entire coast is chilly and windswept even in mid-summer.

While a number of growers are making superb Pinots, Jeff was particularly impressed with three: Adelsheim (pronounced "Addle-shime"), Domaine Serene, and Penner-Ash. The two Adelsheim Pinots of note are the 2006 Willamette ($29.99), and their Elizabeth's Reserve ($46.99). The Domaine Serene wines are Yamhill Cuvee 2005 ($38.99) and the Evanstad Reserve, also 2005 ($63.99). In a blind tasting recently, the Yamhill scored higher than the classic French wine, Romanee-Conti, which is one of the most expensive wines in the world, and considered by many to be the finest of the elite group of Grand Cru Burgundies. Not bad for a bottle selling for just under $40! The Penner-Ash that is recommended most highly is the 2006 Dussin Vineyard ($74.99). Jeff is also very complimentary of the Archery Summit 2006 Premier Cuvee ($48.99); the Domaine Drouhin 2006 ($48.99); and the Four Graces 2006 ($30.99). All of these wines are in stock at Frugal's. If you don't see them on the shelf, they are probably in the "cave" at the back of the store.

We hasten to add that we stock much more modestly priced Pinot Noirs. The A to Z ($19.99) and the Cloudline ($18.99) are both recommended. The budget conscious can still experience this grape for as low as $11.99 per bottle (Mark West or Castle Rock). However, a word from personal experience. More than is true for any other wine, you get what you pay for in Pinot Noir. There are terrific buys in Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel for less than $15. Frugal has bottles of Spanish Garnacha and Tempranillo that are very drinkable at $10, or even less. But if you have a palate, you are probably going to be disappointed in Pinot Noirs in that price range. Few of us can afford to drink a $50 or $60 bottle of wine every night, but for something that gives great pleasure, that isn't too much for a special occasion. Albert Einstein once said that some people never find the truth because they understand too soon. Some people may never know what a great Pinot Noir tastes like because they set their limit at a low price point.

Oregon makes other wines that are worthy of note. Adelsheim makes an outstanding Pinot Gris ($17.99). This is the same grape as Pinot Grigio, which is sometimes thin and frivolous. You should see what this vintner has done with it! It is a serious white that has gotten great reviews. Also, don't miss the Adelsheim Pinot Noir Rose ($18.99). This is the most beautiful wine I've seen this year. I find myself staring at the bottle while I'm drinking it. It is also simply delicious when served ice cold on these muggy days. I feel sorry for those who will miss this because they think Rose is cheap and too sweet.

Jeff is enthusiastic about the Oregon wines he tasted and we think you will be too. Drop by the store this week and let the wine guys introduce you to one of the wines we've featured. You are in for a wonderful experience! By the way, there will be a wine tasting on Thursday night, September 18 for the benefit of Belle Meade Mansion and First Steps, a Nashville program for special needs children. Frugal's, along with Best Brands, is organizing this event, and there will be a special table of Oregon Pinot Noirs for you to sample. Special discounts will be in effect for anything you want to purchase. Details are on the Frugal website, www.frugalmacdoogal.com. Join us and help two worthy charities while enjoying some of the best wines of the year!

Note: This article contains prices and availability of wines that are subject to change after it is archived.

Read Ed Young's previous articles: Click Here.