On The Road in Napa
Valley 2004
>August 10th: Beringer
>August 9th: Hartford Court,
Terra Valentine
and Barnett Vineyards.
>August
8th: Korbel
>August
7th: Stags' Leap Winery
>August 6th: Hendry and Darioush.
>August
5th: Robert Mondavi and Schug.
>August 4th:
Silverado and Jarvis.
August 7: The Original Stags' Leap Winery
Much of day four was spent exploring the 240-acre wine estate property and fine wines of Stags’ Leap Winery. As a matter of clarification, Stags’ Leap (plural possessive) resides within the AVA known as the Stags Leap District (plural). Stags’ Leap Winery is close-by, but not related to Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. (It took over 10 years in court to decide who gets an apostrophe and where it goes. Once the case was settled, the winemakers for Stags’ Leap and Stag’s Leap produced a special edition wine called Accord. We saw it in the library but did not taste.)
Stags’ Leap is the original winery in the District, with vintages dating to 1893. Horace and Minnie Mizner Chase founded the property. Minnie was the daughter of a prominent San Franciscan, U.S. Senator and Diplomat. The estate was named after a Native American legend that told of a stag leaping across crags of the palisades (bordering the East side of the property) to escape hunters. The Chases built the stone manor house, the old stone winery and the first wine caves on the East of Napa Valley.
Horace had a custom stained glass window placed in the dining room which had a coat of arms on it and also the words “NE CEDE MALIS”. This was one of his favorite sayings, which translates to “do not give in to misfortune”. The Chases made wine until 1913, when ironically, Horace met misfortune, losing all his money. The Granges bought it, ran in during prohibition, and turned it into a resort for the wealthy. They added the guesthouses, including the Canary Cottage, which we stayed in. Misfortune struck again when Mr. Grange was crippled in a horseback accident. After the Granges, the property went into disrepair, and even the caves were forgotten. Finally, 1970s Napa pioneer Carl Doumani restored the estate, rediscovered the old caves, and began making wine again.
The current winemaker, Robert Brittain, joined Doumani in 1988. In 1997, Beringer purchased Stags’ Leap, and the revitalization continues.
Many of the vines have been replaced because of phylloxera. During this process, Britain used DNA mapping to identify old (head-trained) vines, discovering diverse clonal selections within old petite syrah vineyards, and reproducing this diversity. Many old head-trained vines remain. Brittain became fascinated with Rhone varietals after discovering what was on the property originally. In 1996, he released his first successful proprietary blend from these diverse Rhone clones called “Ne Cede Malis”. All the wines we tasted excelled in their class, but the 1999 Ne Cede Malis (Reserve) was my favorite on that day.
We tasted nine wines; all of them were excellent. Six wines fall into the regular Napa Valley line and three were the black label reserve wines.
We started with the
Napa Valley Viognier (2002), which was perfectly balanced and crisp with a full body and fragrant peach and honeysuckle aromas. Some Viognier is sweet on the finish, but this one was delightfully dry. French oak was used, but mostly previously used for Chardonnay, so the effect comes across neutral. The nose is bright, and there is a classic mineral note on the palate, and good acidity. This is a perfect aperitif, and could handle difficult cuisine with spice.
The
Napa Valley Chardonnay (2002) was classic, complex and layered with texture. There was tropical fruit and apples on the nose and smoky, vanilla and clove undertones developed as the wine finished. Brittain reports that he used French Oak, old and new, full malolactic fermentation, and sur lies aging.
The
Napa Valley Merlot (2001) was a serious red with great structure and richness. It was buttoned-down like a cabernet. There was a brambly character on the nose, which you pick up walking around the property on a warm day like ours. The nose revealed clove and spice over dark plum and blackberry. The mouthfeel was rich, and this wine was juicy delicious on the palate. Like some right-bank Bordeaux, this wine had some Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) for added complexity. Merlot comes in two styles in the U.S.: the light body easy drinker, and the serious right-bank Bordeaux style. Those who appreciate the latter should investigate this one.
The
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (2000) turned out great despite what some called a difficult year. A perfect match for steak au poivre, due to its medium firm structure and lingering rolling peppercorn spice on the finish. It has great California Napa Valley floor dark flavors and aromas, plus the briary terroir and spicy vanilla from the 18 months in French Alliers and Nevers oak barrels.
The
Napa Valley Syrah (2001) was elegantly powerful. Not surprising given the location and long history of Syrah growing here. Everything was there that you seek in a Syrah from Napa, including the jam, pepper, mineral and a bit of smokiness. A slight earthiness reflects the gravely base (watch out for the rattlesnakes, Karen Yamada advised us.) This is a rich masculine wine, and you can even pick up aromas of leather and minty tobacco.
The
Napa Valley Petite Syrah (2000) was distinctive. The fruit flavors were deep, especially blackberry, blueberry, chocolate and some anise. This is one of the more unique Napa Valley treats. The brilliant Brittan adds 2.5% of his unparalleled Viognier to "fill the valley that petite syrah sometimes develops in mid-palate, and adds a bit of spice in the aromatics". There is also 3.5% Syrah and a bit of carignane and granache. We had Sharfenberger 70% chocolate with this one – wow.
Next, we moved to the cellar wine library, where we tasted the three reserve wines.
The Napa Valley Reserve Merlot (2000) was juicy, full, soft and elegant. Drink or hold.
The Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (1999) was intense, complex, dense, chewy, with lots happening all around the mouth. There’s cedar, coffee, briar and mineral. Drink or hold.
The Napa Valley "Ne Cede Malis" Reserve (1999) really rocked my palate. This wine is dominated by Petite Syrah, especially from the oldest head-trained vines on the estate and from newer vines duplicated from the original clones. Such an honest wine with layers of texture, fruit and terroir that no other winery could duplicate if they tried. Not a cookie cutter wine at all. Enjoy if you can get it.
-Jerry Hall
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