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On The Road in Napa Valley 2004

>August 10th: Beringer
>August 9th: Hartford Court, Terra Valentine
                    and Barnett Vineyards.
>August 8th: Korbel
>August 7th: Stags' Leap Winery
>August 6th: Hendry and Darioush.
>August 5th: Robert Mondavi and Schug.
>August 4th: Silverado and Jarvis.

August 8: Korbel was the next stop on our Tour. Located a mile from Guerneville (locally pronounced Gurn-vill) in the Russian River Valley, Korbel was a little out of the way, across the mountain in Sonoma County. This is a popular tourist spot, and definitely worth visiting. We got a tour of the original winery and house, as well as the huge modern plant and estate vineyards. Our guide, Monica Smith did a great job of explaining the classic method for making Champagne, methode champenoise, which involves secondary fermentation in the bottle.

The Korbel Brothers were making "California Champagne" more than 100 years ago, when Guerneville was called Stumptown. Francis and later his younger brothers emigrated from Bohemia. Francis escaped prison, where he had been sentenced for his political beliefs. He loved the freedom he experienced in California. First trying cigar making, then cigar box making, then running a sawmill, it was another opportunity that led to making bubbly. When timber for the sawmill was razed, there was space between the huge stumps to plant grapes. Francis imported equipment and methods for making his "California Champagne", turning out bubbly, which was secondarily fermented in the bottle the classic way.

The Korbel family owned the business until the 1950s when Adolf Heck purchased it. He implemented automated riddling and other innovations, and revived the Korbel Brand. Son Gary Heck presides now, and the Company remains family owned.

Note: Korbel uses the term "California Champagne" for their Sparkling Wine sold in the USA. However, for bottles sold outside the USA, they call it "Sparkling Wine". According to the World Courts, to be called "Champagne", a wine must be produced within the Champagne region in France. Thus, all Champagne is Sparkling Wine, but only about 10% of Sparkling Wine can be called Champagne.

On the tour, we tasted a group of sparkling wines, including French Champagnes (Moet & Chandon White Star, Mumm), as well as Andre Brut (made using the Charmat process, wherein secondary fermentation is done in large tanks), Domain Carneros Brut, and Korbel Extra Dry. This initial tasting provided a useful illustration of the major differences between styles, methods, and origin. Korbel’s bubbly fared very well, as a bright refreshing crisp, yet rich style, without an abundance of toast or yeast.

After the tour, we tasted eight more Korbel California Champagnes.

> Vintage Reserve 1998 Blanc de Noir: Russian River Valley grapes.

> Le Premier 1997: Reserve, the most toast and complexity.

> Natural 2001: Dryest, with .7% dosage; Sonoma County Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

> Pinot Gris: Very limited at this time; Delicate and aromatic.

> Chardonnay Champagne: Just like it sounds.

> Merlot 2000: Yes, bubbly Merlot, and this one was also just like it sounds.

> Sec: The original-style Korbel California Champagne, a bit sweet.

> Moscato Frizzante: Tastes similar to an Italian Asti Spumante

After a day of touring and tasting all those bubbles, I was amazed. How can Korbel can turn out such a nice bottle of bubbly for such a reasonable price (often under $10 retail)? My favorites were the Korbel Natural 2001, and the Vintage Reserve 1998 Blanc de Noir.


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