August 8: Korbel was the next stop on our Tour. Located a
mile from Guerneville (locally pronounced Gurn-vill) in the Russian River
Valley, Korbel was a little out of the way, across the mountain in Sonoma
County. This is a popular tourist spot, and definitely worth visiting. We
got a tour of the original winery and house, as well as the huge modern
plant and estate vineyards. Our guide, Monica Smith did a great job of
explaining the classic method for making Champagne, methode champenoise,
which involves secondary fermentation in the bottle.
The Korbel Brothers were making "California Champagne" more
than 100 years ago, when Guerneville was called Stumptown. Francis and
later his younger brothers emigrated from Bohemia. Francis escaped prison,
where he had been sentenced for his political beliefs. He loved the
freedom he experienced in California. First trying cigar making, then
cigar box making, then running a sawmill, it was another opportunity that
led to making bubbly. When timber for the sawmill was razed, there was
space between the huge stumps to plant grapes. Francis imported equipment
and methods for making his "California Champagne", turning out
bubbly, which was secondarily fermented in the bottle the classic way.
The Korbel family owned the business until the 1950s when Adolf Heck
purchased it. He implemented automated riddling and other innovations, and
revived the Korbel Brand. Son Gary Heck presides now, and the Company
remains family owned.
Note: Korbel uses the term "California Champagne" for their
Sparkling Wine sold in the USA. However, for bottles sold outside the USA,
they call it "Sparkling Wine". According to the World Courts, to
be called "Champagne", a wine must be produced within the
Champagne region in France. Thus, all Champagne is Sparkling Wine, but
only about 10% of Sparkling Wine can be called Champagne.
On the tour, we tasted a group of sparkling wines, including French
Champagnes (Moet & Chandon White Star, Mumm), as well as Andre Brut
(made using the Charmat process, wherein secondary fermentation is done in
large tanks), Domain Carneros Brut, and Korbel Extra Dry. This initial
tasting provided a useful illustration of the major differences between
styles, methods, and origin. Korbel’s bubbly fared very well, as a
bright refreshing crisp, yet rich style, without an abundance of toast or
yeast.
After the tour, we tasted eight more Korbel California Champagnes.
> Vintage Reserve 1998 Blanc de Noir: Russian River Valley grapes.
> Le Premier 1997: Reserve, the most toast and complexity.
> Natural 2001: Dryest, with .7% dosage; Sonoma County Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay.
> Pinot Gris: Very limited at this time; Delicate and aromatic.
> Chardonnay Champagne: Just like it sounds.
> Merlot 2000: Yes, bubbly Merlot, and this one was also just like
it sounds.
> Sec: The original-style Korbel California Champagne, a bit sweet.
> Moscato Frizzante: Tastes similar to an Italian Asti Spumante
After a day of touring and tasting all those bubbles, I was amazed. How
can Korbel can turn out such a nice bottle of bubbly for such a reasonable
price (often under $10 retail)? My favorites were the Korbel Natural 2001,
and the Vintage Reserve 1998 Blanc de Noir.