On The Road in Napa
Valley 2004
>August 10th: Beringer
>August 9th: Hartford Court,
Terra Valentine
and Barnett Vineyards.
>August
8th: Korbel
>August
7th: Stags' Leap Winery
>August 6th: Hendry and Darioush.
>August
5th: Robert Mondavi and Schug.
>August 4th:
Silverado and Jarvis.
August 6: Hendry Ranch Winery and Darioush
The vines must struggle. "That’s what it’s all about, make them suffer". Particularly during August, as the grapes hang in wait, the vineyard managers must maintain a certain level of stress in the vines if the fruit are going to express their character and terroir. The best vineyard locations challenge the vines with lean rocky soil and very little rain as the grapes mature. Yes, the vines are irrigated and given nutrition, but only what is necessary. A big rain late in the season will cause the grapes (berries) to swell, and produce a dilute wine.
Could it be that personal struggle makes for great wine?
The 115-acre
Hendry Ranch, which today makes some uniquely wonderful wines, was founded out of personal struggle. George Hendry, who presides over the vineyard and winery, was quite young when his father died. Very soon after buying the ranch, the main breadwinner was gone. Interested parties circled waiting for a chance to take the ranch. George’s mother Margaret was a strong schoolteacher with two children in tow. She succeeded in keeping the ranch together. George took multiple degrees in physics and made a career of cyclotron physics.
Now, George’s nephew Mike is the Vineyard Manager. Mike, also a physicist by training, and George approach the task of making great wines with scientific method and a healthy respect for the unpredictability of nature.
Then, there is the unique terroir of the ranch. The acreage sits on a bench between Napa Valley and Carneros. The elevation and proximity to the cooler bay area give the vines additional hang time. Most varietals can prosper in this location.
The Hendrys divided the ranch into many small blocks. Each block is harvested, fermented and aged separately. The goal is a better understanding of the variables influencing the finished product. Processed separately, blocks are blended only just prior to bottling, after much tasting, analysis, and debate amongst George, Mike and partners Susan Ridley and Jeff Miller. Needless to say, we think the results speak for themselves.
We tasted most of the Hendry’s currently available wines, as well as a unique Primitivo, which is not typically available. The Primitivo, an Italian grape akin to Zinfandel, was something different and welcome.
The Pinot Gris (2003) was crisp and refreshing with delicate tree fruit flavors. This wine was slow cold fermented and aged a short time in neutral oak.
We tasted two Chardonnays. This vintage is wonderful. The Block 9 & 21 (2002) was produced from older low-yielding vines, which bear small tart fruit of intense flavor. The concentrated tropical fruit flavors were complemented by bright acidity and a long balanced finish. A portion of the wine was put through malolactic fermentation for a hint of butter.
The block 19 & 20 Chardonnay (2002) saw more French oak, giving it more spice and complexity. The oak was not overwhelming, allowing the apple and meyer lemon notes to come through.
The Zinfandels were also praiseworthy. Block 28 (2000) is a powerful offering with lots of tannins, full-bodied like a cab, and with dark fruit flavors. Yes, this one has some pepper on the palate that lingers.
Block 7 (2002) is a younger Zin, but elegant and supple. We liked the chewy black fruit and a hint of spice. Anything you could put on the grill, from roasted vegetables to Niman Ranch tenderloin to free range chicken, would benefit from this one.
All these wines were great, and all could easily be priced higher. We’re happy Hendry has resisted the temptation to charge more.
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The Hendry winery building in the center of the estate vineyard
The Hendry Ranch sits on a bench overlooking the Napa Valley
Veraison, the beginning of color change in the grapes, is shown occuring early this year
The original ranch house survived the 1906 earthquake
Hendry Block 8 Cabernet Sauvignon would have to be considered a bargain. The flavor profile is delightfully complex, including cherry, spice, mint, mocha and roasted red peppers. The tannins are under control. Extended French oak aging contributed to a well integrated finish. Note: For many years, these grapes were used in Opus One and Robert Mondavi Private Reserve. Impressive stuff!
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A different story of struggle led to the founding of
Darioush winery. Named after the founder, whose first name is Darioush, the winery and its wines are absolutely elegant. Yet behind the opulence is a hard work story.
Darioush fled Iran with the overthrow of the former government in the 1970s. He left with relatively little cash. He relocated to Southern California and began working as an independent grocer. He dreamed of having a winery and making high-end wines. Hard work, business acumen and vision were key in his success in becoming a major player in the independent grocery business in California.
Darioush is nearing completion of a distinctive, monumental structure along Silverado Trail, which will serve as the new visitor center and part-time home for he and his dream. The structure is a replica of a well-known Iranian property called Darious. You have to see this, although we didn’t shoot pictures because it was not quite finished.
| Darioush has succeeded in producing elegant opulent wines. This is one of Napa Valley’s rising stars, according to Wine Enthusiast magazine.
We tasted the Signature wines, which are limited offerings.
The white wines included a beautiful Viognier (2003) and Chardonnay (2002). The Viognier had great body, and exotic (honeysuckle) notes leading to a crisp well balanced finish. The Chardonnay would be a good wine for rich dishes, with its spicy oak and nice fruit. Memorable.
The Signature 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon was complex and full-bodied with sophisticated notes of blackcurrants, spice, coffee, chocolate and toast. The complexity is no doubt due in part to the grapes’ origin. They come from the estate vineyard on the valley floor, and also from higher elevation vineyards in the Mt Veeder and Atlas Peak regions of Napa. Velvety smooth on the finish, but with plenty of structure for enjoyment "down the road".
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