Beer was first brewed by the Egyptians in the time of the pharaohs. When this wonderful invention reached Europe, it became diversified by the use of different grains, hops, and brewing methods. One result was the development of ales of various types (brown, porter, stout, bitters, Belgian, and pale ale, to name a few). Some of these brews have fascinating histories. After Britain colonized India in 1772, it was necessary for English brewers to make their ales stronger, and with more hops, in order to preserve the product—thus India Pale Ale (IPA) was born. Interestingly, the British Admiralty was instrumental in this development. Sailors expected their daily ration of brew, and if it spoiled en route, morale could be a big problem on those hot 5-month voyages.
Today, although we have refrigeration and fast transportation to anywhere in the world, the biggest development has been the establishment of microbreweries. The hottest brewer in the U.S. right now is Dogfish Head (Milton, Delaware). Here are three of their ales we tasted recently.
Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA. U.S., 6.0 % alcohol. Their flagship brew, this has lots of citrusy hop flavor with hints of cedar, pine, and candied orange. Nice and light in the glass (it has a beautiful color), we tasted a delightful combination of caramel and barley. In December 2005, Wine Spectator reviewed this ale and gave it their highest score (96-100). $1.99 per 12 oz. bottle; or $9.99 for a 6-pack.
Dogfish Head 90 Minute Imperial IPA. U.S., 9% alcohol. The “60” and “90” designations on these first two come from the carefully-timed addition of hops to the hot wort during the brewing process. Deep amber color with an herbal aroma, plus hops and molasses. This is darker than the “60” and is heavier and maltier on the tongue, with a long, bitter finish. Would be great with spicy foods! $2.79 per 12 oz. bottle; or $9.99 for a 4-pack.
Dogfish Head Raison D’Etre. U.S., 8% alcohol. This brewer advertises “off-centered ales for off-centered people” and this one will challenge your perceptions of what beer should be. A deep mahogany color, this dark ale is brewed with beet sugar, green raisins, and a “sense of purpose”. Don’t be put off by the rhetoric or the ingredients. This is very smooth and round on the palate. The people who make this have imagination! Raison d’etre (reason for being) was our favorite, and will bring joy to your life too. $1.99 for a 12 oz. bottle; or $9.99 for a 6-pack.
The country most associated with sophisticated ales is Belgium. Belgian monks have been making superior ales in their monasteries for centuries. We included two brews from the Benedictines at Maredsous, who still exercise strict control over recipes and quality standards.
Maredsous 8 Abbey Ale. Belgium, 8% alcohol. This is a dark brown ale that exudes malted barley on the nose and expressive fruit and caramel in the mouth. An appealing creamy, foaming head. This brew is not as heavy on the palate as it looks. $2.99 for an 11.2 oz. bottle; or $7.99 for a .750 ml. (same size as a standard wine bottle).
Maredsous Triple Abbey Ale 10. Belgium, 10% alcohol. This ale is beautiful in the glass and has a festive sparkle. Not as dark as the “8”, it is an harmonious balance of sweet, sour, and bitter. We detected a citrusy taste on a lingering finish. Delicious! $3.49 for an 11.2 oz. bottle.
No tasting of beers and ales would be complete without a brew made in Germany. We chose a double bock.
Paulaner Salvator Double Bock. Germany, 7.5% alcohol. As the name indicates, this is a stronger version of the classic bock beer. It is very full bodied, with a dark, nice head. We found an intense malty sweetness, not unlike concentrated caramel. This doesn’t have a big finish, but is very smooth and drinkable. $2.99 for a 12 oz. bottle.
One of the really interesting developments in malt beverages is seeing the new offerings coming from countries that are not known for a brewing tradition. We finished our session with two Slavic beers.
KB Red East Lager. Russia, 8% alcohol. This is a light beer with a surprising aroma and taste of lilac. It is clean on the palate, but very sweet. It reminded me of how my grandmother smelled when she emerged from her boudoir on the way to a funeral. If you are looking for something unusual, this is a good choice. $2.49 for a 16.9 oz. bottle.
Obolon Porter. Ukraine, 7% alcohol. This beer is a reddish brown color with hardly any head. While light as porters go, it was still the darkest entry in our tasting. This is a high quality brew with molasses, pine, and licorice on the palate, and a good balance of sweet and bitter. Not as heavy on the finish as we expected. $1.99 for a 16.9 oz. bottle.
We think you’ll find something to like in this group of brews. When you’re in the store, be sure to check out our special sale on J.W. Dundee’s India Pale Ale, made in Rochester, N.Y. At $4.99 per 6-pack, or $17.99 per case, it would be an inexpensive way to begin your venture into these interesting and well-crafted beverages. The wine (and ale) guys hope to see you soon.
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