Pinot Noir Soars After "Sideways"
by Ed Young
Frugal MacDoogal's Monthly Guest Wine Letter March, 2005
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"I do like to think about the life of wine; how it is a living thing. I like to think about the year the grapes were growing, how the sun was shining that summer, or if it rained…what the weather was like. I think about all those people who tended and picked the grapes, and if it is an old wine, how many of them must be dead by now. I love how wine continues to evolve; how every time I open a bottle it’s going to taste different than if I opened it on any other day. Because a bottle of wine is actually alive: It is constantly evolving and gaining complexity, and then it begins steady, inevitable decline. And it tastes so ***** good!" If you saw the movie “Sideways”, you may recognize that monologue by Maya when she and Miles are bonding through their common love of wine. That may be one of the best expressions of wine appreciation ever.
This independent film, for which there were low expectations even among the people who created it, has won numerous awards, earned tons of money, and inflamed the imaginations of wine lovers everywhere. After “Field of Dreams” was released back in 1989, thousands of fans made the pilgrimage to Dyersville, Iowa just to walk out onto that magical baseball field. Similarly, huge crowds of wine lovers are making their way to the Santa Ynez Valley north of Santa Barbara to visit the wineries where Miles and Jack had their memorable “fling” in the tasting rooms before Jack’s wedding. The film garnered five Academy Award nominations, and won for “Best Screen Play”. In the movie, Miles is a very serious (but neurotic and opinionated) wine connoisseur, and the wine he most fancies is Pinot Noir. So great has been the influence of this film, sales of Pinot Noir have soared all over America.
This month’s newsletter is devoted to that noble grape. All the great wines of Burgundy are made from Pinot Noir, and it is also used in some of the finest Champagnes. Of all the classic grapes, this one is the most difficult to make into wine. It is highly sensitive to climate changes and variations in soil composition. In the Wine Bible, Karen MacNeil notes that Pinot Noir, more than any other wine, is described in sensual terms. At its best, “it is remarkably supple, with silky textures and erotically earthy aromas.” It is less viscous and tannic than Cabernet Sauvignon, and lighter in color too. It takes a cool temperature and a lot of winemaking skill to create a good Pinot. One of its perverse characteristics is that the higher the yield, the more likely the grapes will be mediocre. For all these reasons, growing Pinot Noir is riskier, and more expensive, but also more fascinating and irresistible.
In the movie, Miles tells Maya why he is so taken with Pinot Noir: “It is a hard grape to grow. As you know, it is thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. It’s not a survivor like Cabernet, which can grow anywhere and thrive even when neglected. Pinot needs constant care and attention, and in fact can only grow in specific little tucked-away areas of the world. And only the most apt and nurturing growers can do it really; can tap into Pinot’s most fragile, delicate qualities. Only when someone has taken the time to truly understand its potential, can Pinot be coaxed into its fullest expression. And when that happens, its flavors are the most haunting, and brilliant, and subtle, and thrilling, and ancient on the planet.”
 | The wine guys at Frugal’s agree with that assessment, but they like Pinot Noir for other reasons too. It is, by far, the most versatile of all wines. It is light enough to pair with salmon, but hearty enough for meats. It is delightful alone, as well as with food. It has, arguably, the best “nose” of any wine. Some Pinots are worth buying just for their bouquet! It also comes in a wide variety of price ranges, from the super expensive vintages of Burgundy, to the modestly priced bottlings of the Pacific Northwest.
But, whether or not you are inspired by “Sideways”, come by the store and let Jeff, Jerry, Jack, or Bob tell you about the wonderful Pinot Noirs we are listing below (all prices listed are for 750ml). |
Patz and Hall, Hyde Vineyard 2002, Carneros $48.99
Dutton Estate Winery, Thomas Road Vineyard 2002, Russian River Valley $42.99
Belle Glos, Clark and Telephone Vineyard 2002, Santa Maria Valley $36.99
Hartford 2003, Sonoma Coast $22.99
Schug 2002, Carneros $19.99
Castle Rock 2003, Monterey County $10.99
Mark West 2003, Central Coast $10.99
Miss last month's letter? >click here<
For A List of Ed Young's Archived Newsletters >click here<
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