Time for Refreshing Worldly White Wines
by Ed Young
Frugal MacDoogal's Monthly Guest Wine Letter May, 2005
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The advent of warm weather turns our thoughts to white wines. We drink whites year-round at our house, but many of our readers don’t think about them until the temperature starts to rise. This month we want to describe nine refreshing white wines and their tasting notes, and recommend a few examples for your consideration.
Champagne. It is the wedding season, so we lead off with the most famous of all white wines. Champagne originated in that region of Burgundy. Dom Perignon, the friar who discovered the “methode champenoise” described his first experience as like “drinking the stars”. Whether you drink the authentic French version or a “sparkling white” from California, this wine is characterized by its effervescence and its yeasty or toasted taste. Actually, some of the best California varieties are now owned by French vinters—Chandon and Roederer, for example, and Piper is owned by Remy Martin of cognac fame. Most varieties are made from Chardonnay (blanc de blanc), Pinot Noir (blanc de noir), or a combination of the two. Brut is the driest version (“extra dry” is actually less dry). Recommendations: For a wonderful French Champagne, try Nicholas Feuillatte Rose ($39.99). From California try the Piper Sonoma ($16.99) or the Gloria Ferrer ($18.99); or, for the budget-minded, ask the wine guys about Spanish Cavas or Italian sparkling white Prosecco.
Chardonnay. This, the king of white still wines, is made in a wide variety of methods. Tasting notes cite vanilla, butter, butterscotch, and tropical fruits, and the wine is usually characterized as creamy, lush, and full-bodied. If you prefer the oaky, creamy style, you can’t do better than Miner (on sale at $24.99). For purists who want a pristine, and different, Chardonnay without the oak and cream, try Morgan Mettalico ($17.99).
Sauvignon Blanc. Translated, it means “wild white”. These wines will vary in character, depending on the country of origin and whether oak barrels were used in making them (in California, Sauvignon Blanc in oak may be bottled as Fume Blanc). Most are described as dry, racy, and crisp, with tart acidity, but aromas may vary, including citrus (grapefruit and lemon), herbs, apples, peaches, grass, green pea, gooseberry, and passion fruit. Some of the most exciting versions of this wine come from New Zealand. In France, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume are made from Sauvignon Blanc, and white Bordeaux contains a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The wine guys recommend Dog Point ($18.99) from New Zealand; Silverado ($15.99) from California; Porcupine Ridge ($8.99) from South Africa; and Casa Lapostolle ($9.99) from Chile.
Chenin Blanc. The best known wine from this grape is probably Vouvray, from the Loire Valley of France, but South Africa, where it is known as Steen, is also a major producer. Wines from this grape can range from dry to sweet, but the best are nearly dry, with just a trace of sweetness. Chenin Blanc is soft and round, with pears, melon, and apricot aromas and flavors. Try Domaine Pichot Vouvray 2004 ($11.99), and get the French experience for a song. From South Africa, try the KWV Steen at $7.99 (a real bargain!).
Riesling. One of the world’s noble grapes, Rieslings are lighter and lower in alcohol (8-12%) than Chardonnay (12-13.5%) and Sauvignon Blanc (13-14.5%). This is a temperamental grape that doesn’t grow well in warmer climates. The classic examples of this wine come from Germany, but Washington State and New York State produce Rieslings as well. In Australia, Riesling is being made in a very dry, refreshing style-not at all sweet like many German and American ones. Tasting descriptions include peaches and apricot, often flowery, with melon and citrus, plus a mineral quality. Many traditional Rieslings, as well as “late harvest” versions have residual sugar and can be fairly sweet. If that has turned you off to this wine in the past, try these dry versions: Pikes Clare Valley from Australia ($18.99), Bonny Doon’s Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, a blend of grapes from Washington State and the middle Mosel region of Germany ($10.99), or Dr. Frank’s Dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes of New York ($16.99).
Viognier. This wine was for many years grown only in the Rhone Valley of France where it had a reputation as a difficult grape to grow, and one producing low yields. In recent years, however, California has discovered this grape big-time. Known for its exotic aroma, Viognier tastes of honeysuckle and cream, and is a wonderful alternative to the better-known white wines we have discussed. The Renwood Voignier at $9.99 is one of my favorite wines ever for under $10, and the Treana blend of Voignier and Marsanne ($18.99) is also a favorite. Another blend, D’Arenberg Hermit Crab, from Australia, is also well worth a try.
Gruner Veltliner. The booming popularity of this Austrian white has gotten the attention of the wine guys. Nashville needs to “discover” this wine! It is lively, with a dry minerality and a hint of white pepper. Very highly recommended are the Lois ($12.99) and the Gru-Ve ($15.99).
Pinot Grigio. Most of these wines come from Northern Italy, where the weather is cool, but some originate in the U.S., labeled as Pinot Gris. These wines may be light, with citrus notes, and sometimes rounder apple or peach aromas. The best Italian versions achieve an exciting balance between minerality and acidity, and have a fuller mouth feel and a longer finish. Try the Kris ($12.99), or the Stella ($9.99).
Albarino. This is one of several white wine grapes grown in Spain, and currently one of the most exciting. Rias Biaxas is where many Albarinos originate, where they are made in a crisp dry fresh fruity style, with tree fruit aromas (peaches and apples), supported by tart acidity and some mineral. Recommended is the Nora ($9.99).
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