 The Accent is on Rosé by Ed Young Frugal MacDoogal's Monthly Guest Wine Letter May, 2006
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It has been a spectacular spring here in Middle Tennessee and summer isn’t far behind. If you are like our family you are looking forward to those picnics on the lawn at various musical events in Nashville, Franklin, Clarksville, Murfreesboro, and even Cookeville. We especially enjoy getting together with friends for Sunday night jazz events and planning the food and wine we are going to take. That is fun—and part of the appeal is setting a table that will be the envy of your fellow concert-goers. You may never have thought of picnicking as a competitive sport, but it can be! We take folding chairs, a rollup table (with tablecloth of course), a vase of flowers, colorful dishes, cloth napkins, a wicker picnic hamper with delicious and eye-appealing food, and then we open the cooler! This last part is what we want to talk to you about. You don’t want to take a Chateau Petrus to a picnic (and especially not in a cooler!) Big red wines are just too much for a hot summer night. On the other hand, a little white, such as Pinot Grigio, may be too light for red meat or spicy dishes. So, what is a good compromise?
Like many others, my first contact with the world of wine many decades ago was with a Portugese Rosé (Mateus). It was kind of exotic, came in an interesting bottle, was less expensive than Lancer’s, and we thought it was delicious! Maybe there is a Rosé somewhere in your past. As we gained more wine experience, and our palates began to develop, we got away from the Mateus, and from Rosés. Unlike Europeans, many experienced wine drinkers in this country shy away from Rosés, remembering them as cheap, overly sweet, and unworthy of attention. Not so!
Here are some good reasons why you should revisit Rosé if you haven’t bought a bottle in a while. The good ones are dry and crisp-not sweet like those you remember from your youth. If you read last month’s newsletter, you may recall that the best winemakers use saignee, draining off a portion of the juice from fermenting red wines to reduce alcohol levels. Much of that juice is used to make Rosé. Some of these wines are made entirely from varietal grapes such as Pinot Noir, so you don’t have to sacrifice quality when you choose a Rosé. Plus, a Rosé can be chilled in the cooler without affecting flavor. On a hot summer night, you’ve got to have something cold, crisp, and good!
As you know, all grape juice is white at first. The color in reds results from leaving the skins in contact with the juice. A Rosé made from Pinot Noir is lighter than the varietal itself because the juice is left in contact with the skins for a shorter time until it is just tinged with color. The result is what I consider the most esthetically pleasing appearance in the whole world of wines. A Rosé is simply beautiful in the glass! It looks festive and inviting, and the exposure to the skins gives it more body and flavor than many whites have. When you pour a Rosé, it will be noticed! The color is unique, and distinctive, and few, if any, of your fellow picnickers will be pouring anything that looks so good.
Here are some recommendations from the wine guys at Frugal’s that will move you ahead of the pack at your next outing.
- Nicholas Feuillatte Rosé Champagne. ($39.99). Nothing tastes better, or is more sparkling and festive than a Rosé Champagne, and this is one of the best. A bottle of this turns a special occasion into a memorable one. Wine Spectator gives it a “90”.
- Hendry Rosé 2005. ($14.99). This winemaker employs the saignee method in making its red varietals, and the drained juice is used to make this Rosé. This is a case of superior grapes producing a superior wine. Spritzy nose; a beautiful, classic color; good mouth feel, and a nice finish.
- Domaine du Poujol 2004. ($12.99). This product of the Languedoc has 12.5% alcohol, and the lightest color of those listed. Not much nose. Has more mouth taste than expected, but needs food.
- Domaine de Fontsainte 2004. ($12.99). This “Gris de Gris” has a lovely color and a perfumey nose. It has a bit more body than the others. Winner of the Medaille d’Argent in Paris in 2005. Drinks better with food. 13% alcohol.
- Chateau du Lascaux 2004. ($12.99). This wine is made near the caves of Lascaux in southwestern France, site of the world’s most famous prehistoric wall drawings. It has a sprightly, inviting nose--you can almost smell the tinge of color. It is 13.5% alcohol, but lighter on the palate than the others and not as much mouth feel.
- Marqués de Cáceres 2004. ($8.99). An exceptional and fruity Rioja made from varietal grapes, this Spanish Rosé is a perennial favorite, and such a great buy for the price that we have trouble keeping it in stock.
- Celliér des Dauphins Cotes du Rhone 2004. ($6.99). This comes in a bottle like Bailey’s and B and B. With a dark, almost reddish, color, this wine is very dry with a slight thirst-quenching bitterness, and a more astringent finish than the others. Don’t be put off by the price. Celliér des Dauphins is the house wine at the restaurant in the Louvre!
Give one of these a try for your next picnic or backyard cookout. If there is a wedding reception coming up, no other wine would add a more festive touch to the occasion. Put a Rosé in your future!
Miss last month's letter? >click here<
For A List of Ed Young's Archived Newsletters >click here<
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