Have you ever bought a bottle of wine because the label appealed to you? I think most of us have done that at some time. A wit once said that second marriages are the triumph of hope over experience, and buying a wine because of the label is a triumph of shelf appearance over intrinsic qualities. In both examples, one can be pleasantly surprised by the outcome, but in the case of wine, you can increase your odds by reading, and understanding, what is on the label.

In the U.S., unlike most European countries, wines are labeled according to the variety of grape rather than by the name of the place the grapes were grown (more about European labeling in a future newsletter). However, most of the better U.S.wines, California ones in particular, will have place names on the label also. Here is what you need to know.

In this country, the set of laws that regulates the use of place names on labels (American Viticultural Area, or AVA) provides little useful information or protection to the consumer. There are no restrictions on grape varieties or winemaking practices. The one thing the consumer can count on is that if a wine label says “Chardonnay” or “Cabernet Sauvignon”, at least 75% of the grapes used are of that varietal. Some states have higher percentage requirements.

After the varietal name, the most important information is the vintner. Experienced wine consumers know that Caymus, Chimney Rock, and Staglin make outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon; Renwood and Rosenblum are noted for their Zinfandels; Newton, Hendry, and Mer Soleil Chardonnays are always excellent; and so forth. Assuming wines have not been abused in shipping or storage, consumers can be confident in the integrity and quality of wines made by these vintners. The vintage (year) can be important too. In the U.S. the year on the label means the year the grapes were harvested. If a label has only the name of the state or county, up to 15% of the grapes used can be of another vintage. For varietals with sub-areas listed such as “Willamette Valley”, the rule is that only 5% of the grapes can be of another vintage. Most of the vintners making higher quality wines use 100% of the grapes from that year. The letters “NV” on a label signify a non-vintage wine (one using grapes from several years).

For California wines, it is common to see sub-areas listed on the label. This is important information if you are familiar with local growing conditions and micro-climates that favor particular grape varieties. In Sonoma County, the Dry Creek and Russian River districts are noted for their Zinfandels. The Santa Maria and Santa Ynez Valleys in Santa Barbara County produce world class Pinot Noir. Napa Valley, of course, is noted for Cabernet Sauvignon, and is divided into many sub-districts such as Stags Leap and Spring Mountain. The most prestigious vintners may have the winemaker’s name on the label. Some of these are legendary names with cult followings. Even the particular vineyard where the grapes were grown is sometimes listed, because many vintners, even the best ones, buy grapes from independent growers. If you are into California wines, “Sangiacomo” or Rosella’s Vineyard” will have special significance. For a few vintners, such as Hendry, even the lot numbers will be shown on the label.

Although not required, labels will often specify where the grapes were grown by percentage of content. For instance, a bottle of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes may say 49% Napa, 51% Sonoma. Most of the blends produced by quality winemakers will show the percentage of varietals (40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, etc.), but not always. Wines with names like “Jest White” or “Old Vine Red” are usually field blends made from a variety of unidentified grapes, but some of these are outstanding values. You can’t always go by what’s in a name!

The word “Reserve” has no legal meaning in the U.S. It implies that the grapes were selected from the better part of the production, but this may not necessarily be the case. The same goes for terms such as “Special Selection”. The word “Cuvee” usually refers to a specific lot or batch of wine, or a blend. It does not necessarily signify a wine of higher quality. The term “Old Vine”, means that the wine is made from smaller, more intensely flavored berries produced by vines that have been in the ground for a long time. The consumer has to trust the palate and the reputation of the vintner to verify the difference in quality. A few wines will specify on the label that they are unfiltered. Most wines are filtered to assure clarity and to remove tiny residual matter. Although the point is argued by experts, I have found that unfiltered wines taste better, and I actually like to see the slight residue in the bottom of the glass.

Since 1989, labels have warned women not to drink alcoholic beverages during pregnancy, and that consumption of alcohol impairs one’s ability to drive and to operate machinery, and may cause health problems. Labels also frequently contain warnings about sulfites, which are an integral element of winemaking. Amounts in finished wine are regulated by law, and are so minute as to not be a health consideration for most consumers. By law, the alcohol content of a wine must be listed on the label, although it is sometimes in such small print that you have to look hard to find it. Wine ranges from 9% alcohol for cold weather grapes such as Reisling or Gruner Veltliner, to as much as 16% for big red Zinfandels. Listed percentages may vary by up to 1%, however. The term “naturally fermented” means that the wine was allowed to ferment spontaneously, without the introduction of yeast. Many experts believe this enhances flavor. The words “barrel fermented” mean that the grapes were fermented in barrels rather than in a large vat. This seems to impart greater complexity and more harmonious flavors to white wines, and if the barrels were steel, the wine will be much less oaky.

Some labels show the number of barrels or cases produced, and a few have stickers showing awards the wine has won. Many now include the website address of the winemaker so the consumer can provide direct feedback about the wine. Labels sometimes contain a statement of philosophy: “As grape growers we hold high regard for the mindful tending of the soil and exacting knowledge of the cellar”. It sounds good, but the best advice is to seek out a wine person you trust who knows what the words really mean. The wine guys at Frugal MacDoogal will help you to look beyond the label!

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