Blends are In
by Ed Young
Frugal MacDoogal's Monthly Guest Wine Letter September, 2004
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This month we are taking a look at blended wines-a much more complex subject than you might think. In California, our largest wine producing state, varietal wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, and Chardonnay must be comprised of at least 75% of that grape in order to call the wine by that name. When you buy a bottle of California red that says “Cabernet Sauvignon” on the label, you can be sure that the wine is at least 75% comprised of cabernet sauvignon grapes (and maybe even 100%). But if you wander up and down the aisles at Frugal’s, you will notice many wines that have names other than grape varietals. Most of these contain a mix of different grapes. That can be confusing to the consumer, but learning about blends can be very rewarding to the palate and to the pocketbook.
First of all, lets examine why vintners mix grapes in the first place. Wouldn’t it just be easier to make 100% of a wine from the varietal grape? Of course it would, but the operative word here is “synergy”, which is defined as the combination of substances to produce an outcome that no single one could achieve alone. Different grapes have different characteristics and they respond differently to soil, moisture, heat and cold, and meteorological events. These responses may produce wines with high or low amounts of tannins, sugar, and alcohol. To correct or improve the wine, a knowledgeable winemaker will add other varieties. Did you know that the great wines of Bordeaux, arguably the finest in the world, are blends? They are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (left bank) or Merlot (right bank), but a percentage of Merlot (left bank), Cabernet Sauvignon (right bank), Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and/or Petit Verdot is added to soften the tannins or impart characteristic aromas. The proportion of secondary grapes will vary from year to year depending upon growing conditions. In Italy, by law, Chianti Classico can be composed of 75%-100% Sangiovese; up to 10% Canaiolo; up to 6% of the white grapes, Trebbiano or Malvasia; and up to 15% of other red grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. The end purpose of blending noble grapes is to produce a synergy-to make the grapes better together than any of them would be alone. This is why winemaking, at its best, is an art.
Blended wines are not easy to classify. Some have the grape varieties and proportions listed on the label; others have the grape varieties, but not the proportions; and still others don’t have any specific information on the label. Following are examples of these categories.
Cain Five (Red). California 1999. 61% Cabernet Sauvignon; 19% Cabernet Franc; 10% Merlot; 6% Petite Verdot; 4% Malbec. $79.99
Tignanello Super Tuscan (Red). Italy 2000. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. $69.99
Justin Isosceles (Red). California 2001. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon; 23% Cabernet Franc; 10% Merlot. $58.99
Ridge Geyserville (Red). California 2001. 74% Zinfandel; 18% Carignane; and 8% Petite Syrah. $31.99
Estancia Meritage (Red). California 2000. 73% Cabernet Sauvignon; 27% Merlot. $29.99
Ridge Zinfandel (Red). California 2001. 78% Zinfandel; 20% Petite Syrah; 2% Carignane. $28.99
Conundrum (White). California 2002. “Identifying the grape varietals included is a conundrum, or puzzle, to be explored and enjoyed by the taster”. $23.99
Ferrari Carano Siena (Red). California 2001. Red Table Wine. $19.99
Gundlach Bundschu Bearitage California Claret (No Year). Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon. $18.99
Mer Soleil Treana (White). California 2001. 61% Viognier; 39% Marsanne. $18.99
Encore Medley (White). California 2002. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Canelli, and Viognier. $14.99
Ca’ del Solo Big House (White). California 2002. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Malvasia Bianco, Vermentino, Arneis, and Roussonne. $8.99
Ca’ del Solo Big House (Red). California 2002. Syrah, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel, Barbera, Carignane, Negrette, Mourvedre, Malbec, and Dolcetto. $8.99
Jest Red California Table Wine (No Year). $8.99
Some of the wines listed bring to mind another good word:” bricolage” (bree-ko-lazh)- something created using a mix of whatever happens to be available. Sometimes the results can be surprisingly good! Don’t get hung up on always knowing precisely what you are drinking. In addition to learning the characteristics of “mixing” grapes that are seldom experienced directly, let your palate be the guide and keep a sense of adventure. As a matter of fact, two of the wines listed above are among my all-time favorites. For white wine drinkers, the Treana is absolutely outstanding, and would still be a good buy if it were priced $10 higher. In spite of the lack of information, and one of the most amusing labels we’ve seen, the Jest Red is one of the most drinkable reds in its price range you will ever find anywhere.
Yes, all these grapes and percentages can be confusing, but if you aren’t drinking blends, you are missing some really interesting wines and some terrific bargains. Frugal’s has a great selection, and our wine guys will help you find a blended wine that will make you happy and please your guests.
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