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American Milk and Honey

Fri, Apr 29, 2022

Perfect weather. Perfect food. Perfect wine.

My wife Erin, and I just got back from Napa and wow, where to begin! It was an incredible trip to one of my favorite places in the world. The landscape is so beautiful it's as if your eyes are deceiving you. The weather is so perfect it makes you question why people live in the south. There isn’t bad food anywhere. Oh, and there’s wine!

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MacMurray Estate Vineyards Central Coast Pinot Noir 2019

So many wineries went above and beyond hosting us throughout the week. Each of the 15 or so wineries we visited had incredible wines to share and an amazing story to tell. What stood out each visit changed from place to place. It was the wine at some and the history at others. At MacMurray it was the land- a ranch that sat inside a bowl curtained from the world by a beautiful ridge. It was the most jaw-dropping property we saw all week.

The history of the property didn’t lack though. Colonel Hugh Porter packed up his family in Virginia in the early 1840s to set out for land in the west. His wife and children traveled in a wagon until they came across this ranch in the now named Russian River Valley, only a dozen miles or so from the Pacific coast. Just imagine traveling from coast to coast in a wagon! And before the Gold Rush even began! Sheesh, what an adventure. As one of the earliest pioneers of the region, Porter pretty much had his pick when it came to land. Having seen it from the ridge myself, I understand exactly why he chose the spot he did.

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The Porters settled there, built a cabin, and started homesteading. When the Civil War was beginning to ramp up, Colonel Porter left his family to ride back to Virginia to fight for the Confederacy. He survived and when the war was over rode back to join his family on the ranch. When his days were up his son took over, and his son after that. The Ranch changed hands when it was purchased in 1941 by actor Fred MacMurray as a getaway from Hollywood. I honestly didn’t know much about Fred MacMurray but apparently he was one of the biggest stars of his day- worth a quick Google. He put most of his energy into raising Scottish Aberdeen Angus, which he took much pride in. He raised his family on the Ranch and passed away in 1991. Now by this time The Russian River Valley had begun to grow thanks to the success of nearby Napa Valley. In 1996, the Gallo family asked to meet with the MacMurrays who accepted the invitation. Gallo soon purchased the property with the promise to keep the integrity of the land and maintain its devotion to agriculture. They quickly planted pinot noir and pinot gris on the property. The Russian River Valley is a cooler climate region, perfect for pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot gris. (If you’re unfamiliar with Gallo, the family is worth 11 Billion dollars and is the largest exporter of California wine. They own everything from Allegrini, Barefoot, Lamarca, Orin Swift to Carlo Rossi, Mark West, and Dark Horse. Recently they acquired Black Box, Manischewitz, Clos du Bois, Taylor and a couple dozen other brands from Constellation for about a billion bucks.)

We got to spend the day on the ranch with Kate MacMurray, Fred’s daughter, who grew up on the ranch and knows it better than anyone. She has now worked for Gallo for two decades as a spokesperson for the ranch and the wines that come from it. She was amazing ha! We were the only people there. We listened to her tell us the history of the place as she led us around the property, through the barns, the farmhouse she grew up in, and then up to the top of the mountain. They’ve done an incredible job at keeping everything true to its roots. The house was so amazing it will be hard to describe. All of the original furniture and appliances have been returned to the home as well as most of the decor. During renovation, some of the original wallpaper that depicts a family on a farm was damaged. They had a wallpaper historian and artist come in and recreate the wallpaper to identically match the original, even in its old age, to replace the torn areas. I say this to explain how much care has gone into keeping this place as it’s always been.

If I could create both my own indoor dining room and outdoor community table and grill space I would model them after those spaces in this house. This house and its decor were MADE for a beautiful farm surrounded by close hills that reach straight to the sky. It’s beautiful. The vineyards on the backside of the ridge were unreal in their expanse. The rolling vineyards seemed to roll off the ridge in the distance. The view from the top was incredible in every direction. I can’t imagine stumbling onto a property like this and deciding to settle there. It must have been an easy decision, especially after traveling all that way.

When it comes to properties like MacMurray, Gallo has done a great job at preserving the place's history and style. They farm those vineyards thoughtfully and do what they can to mess with it as little as possible. They farm organically and even have a falconer that uses his trained falcon to hunt critters in the vineyards that snack on the fruit. Amazing. They use the 50/50 rule which ensures that only 50% of the land will ever be planted with vines and the remaining 50% returned to its natural state.

Kate and Paden were amazing hosts. They opened some old and special bottles for us, begged us to come back soon and spend more time there, promising that we’d barbecue one night at the farmhouse. We left wishing we could have spent the rest of the day there but we had our next appointment to get to. We tasted better wine at a handful of places but overall, this was our favorite visit of the week. 

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Rombauer Zinfandel 2019

Rombauer was started by Koerner and Joan Rombauer in 1980 and has since become one of Napa’s most well known wineries. They are most known for their Chardonnay. It is the epitome of big and buttery and kinda put that style on the map. People LOVE it, and I sell so much of it. But it is a style that if you don’t love, you hate. I think the market is moving away from big buttery chardonnays and moving towards unoaked little malo chards that are brighter, crispier, and more refreshing. If you haven’t had it, it is worth a taste but also isn’t cheap. None of their wines are. Chard-$45 ($43 at Frugal), Zin- $40 ($38 at Frugal, $35 Preston’s Picks Wine Club Member).

I was indifferent about visiting Rombauer on our trip. It’s a winery that has become so defined by their chardonnay that someone who doesn’t love chardonnay, like myself, might unfairly turn their nose up at the name.

But I am so glad we visited. The winery was beautiful and offered one of the best views on the entire trip. The gardens that surrounded the winery and covered the hillside were gorgeous, but not too gorgeous ha. It felt like a grandma’s garden that she poured all her time into, not like a mansion or chateau with precisely planned gardens. It was homey. One cool thing about Rombauer is that it is still family owned and has avoided acquisition by the larger companies. You really can tell while there.

Their chardonnay isn’t the only wine of theirs that’s big and bold. All of their wines are. I love their Zinfandel for many reasons. While big and jammy and on the border of sweet, this zin is a classic example of Napa zinfandel in every way.

After prohibition zinfandel took on the role as California’s most popular grape. It then fell out of style, which pushed producers to start using it to make sweet rosé they called White Zinfandel. This pink wine exploded in popularity but honestly killed the reputation of the grape with serious wine drinkers. It has more recently come back into popularity as sweeter jug wines have started to lose pull in the market. The warm climate of Napa makes these zins rich in flavor. Zinfandel grown in this climate in combination with the Rombauer style makes for a zinfandel that is as decadent as chocolate cake (a great pairing).

Fun fact: We thought zinfandel was an American grape for the longest time. We just wanted it so badly to be true. It was known as our ‘national grape’ and thought to be the best of what was native to the Americas. But when DNA testing rolled around we found out that it wasn’t native, but in fact, primitivo from Puglia, Italy. So when you’re in the Italian wine section and see primitivo on the bottle, know that that is zinfandel.

You’ll taste chocolate and vanilla, blackberry jam, blueberries, plums, and a touch of pepper. You’ll even get some dried fruits, figs, and raisins, unique in such a young wine, but speaks to its oak aging and ripeness of fruit.

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Along with MacMurray Ranch, Schramsberg was a favorite visit! We love bubbles, but it wasn’t just the wine that sold us on Schramsberg. It was the place and the people. We spent half the day with Laurent, the VP of Sales who I met last year through my Lipman rep/friend's wife who works for Wilson Daniels, who happens to be Schramsberg’s supplier. Laurent was an incredible host, giving us a backstage tour of the property and winery and tasting us on some incredible wines. The land was beautiful and the stories amazing. Started by German immigrant Jacob Schram in the late 1800s, Schramsberg is one of Napa’s oldest. It was purchased by the Davies family in 1965 and is still owned and operated by them today.

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What stood out here were the caves that have been dug into the mountain side over the course of the century. The caves were crammed wall to wall and floor to ceiling with millions of bottles of aging sparkling wines. The sight was nerve wracking and mind blowing. I wanted to include a bottle of Schramsberg this month but at $45 it would have put us way over budget ha! Next time you need a good bottle of Champagne, try Schramsberg instead. It’s been the official sparkling wine of the White House since Nixon served the 1969 vintage of blanc de blancs to the Chinese Premier in the 1972 “Toast to Peace” in Beijing. The last few bottles of 1969 vintage in existence are in the White House wine cellar. Schramsberg has been served by every President at Presidential dinners since Nixon.

Ashes and Diamonds served us the best meal we had all week! Although it was close competition. Steve Matthiason and Diana Snowden make the wines for this project that focuses on single vineyard cabs, estate cab franc, and old world blends. The wines are amazing, but expensive. A few of you came to the private tasting I hosted at Frugal a few weeks ago with Ashes and Diamonds so you know just how tasty they are. We got to taste some amazing bottles of single vineyard wine that don’t get to go to market which is always fun and special. The food tho. The meal was beautiful and built perfectly around the wines. The winery and tasting room is dope too. With its modern architecture, it stands out like a sore thumb.

The best wines I tasted all week were at Heitz. And that’s high praise, because we tasted some incredible wine. The tasting room and winery has recently been renovated after the company was purchased by the Lawrence family (a little Nashville connection for ya. Arkansas banking fam, but they live in Nashville). The space was beautiful and fancy! If you remember, you got a bottle of the Heitz Grignolino 6 or so months ago. It’s a lighter bodied italian variety that they have grown on the property since Joe Heitz purchased the land in 1961.

Well I hope you savored the moment because that was the final vintage. They are no longer making that bottling sadly. With new ownership comes changes, some good some bad. I gave ‘em a hard time about it while I was there though so maybe they’ll change their plan. 😉

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I also gave ‘em a hard time about changing their label, the label they’ve used since 1961, but alas here we are. Moving on. While there we were able to taste through a handful of single vineyard cabs and a few vintages of Martha’s Vineyard, their most famous wine. When I tell you these wines blew my mind, I’m not exaggerating. “HOW DOES THIS WINE TASTE LIKE THIS!?” was the only thing I could really come up with at the time. The depth of flavor, the balance, the nuance, all insane. Perfect wine. It’s wild but Martha’s has a finish of eucalyptus. It’s an incredible bright herbaceousness that gives the wine this unique depth. Come to find out that next door to Martha’s Vineyard, there’s a eucalyptus grove. Awesome.

Some of our other favorite experiences were at the Faust Haus, the new Louis Martini (9) tasting room, the Bubble Room and tasting menu at J, the Chȃteau at Domaine Carneros, and Rudd (wow this place was incredible. Like a bond villain's lair (Also some of the best wine we had all week. If you ever make a trip out there, don’t go without letting me know!

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By wine@frugalmacdoogal.com